From a technical point of view, there are no particular difficulties for the construction of stairs for decks, entrances or shacks. Anyone who has basic carpentry skills can make the necessary cutting and assembly details. Nevertheless, the construction of a ladder is perhaps the most difficult task you have ever done.
The staircase must correspond to the strict codes of buildings to ensure safety and comfort. We are used to uniform, professionally constructed ladders, and small differences between the stages can lead to dangers of shutdown. High steps make it difficult and shallow, uncomfortable and dangerous. Due to the small number of errors, the construction ladder requires careful assembling and some potentially complex calculations. First of all, contact your office building to get local recommendations. Then follow the instructions on these pages – spend a lot of time on proper planning. As an example, we use the steps leading to a deck in the backyard.
Basic staircase anatomy
A typical ladder consists of three main components: a stringer, a pedal and a riser. Stringers are usually cut from 2 x 12s and are sloped panels that support other components and carry a mass of people walking down the stairs. They are usually located 16 inches from the center. When determining the width of the ladder, do not forget to be wider and better. “The wide staircase is more convenient and safe,” said Paul Mantoni, an outsource contractor for Terriers Plus in Trivelle, Connecticut. “I rarely build a ladder less than 4 feet wide, and I like them more.”
The protector forms the top surface of each step, and the riser is installed directly under the leading edge of each tread. According to many builders, some stairs do not have risers, but this is a mistake. Scott Padgett, an award winning deck manufacturer in Idylliville, California, explained: “The lift can protect exposed strings of cut stringers from the weather.” If there is no riser, the stringer will pop faster. Open or split.
Step 1. Calculate the rise and run
The first step in building a ladder for the deck is to determine the total height of the ladder or the overall vertical height that the ladder should cover. Place the straight plate at the top of the deck, pull it out from the edge and measure it to the landing site. Say, the overall growth is 57 inches. The next task is to find the lift of each step. The division of 57 by 7 inches (typical growth per step) yields 8.14. Complete the steps: eight. Then determine the actual growth by dividing 57 inches by 8 steps and getting 7 1/8 inches per step.
You can use this information to find the total mileage on the ladder – or how many horizontal distances will be covered when lifting. Multiply the number of steps by the run or the horizontal depth of each step. The optimal operation for each step is at least 10 inches, which is enough to accommodate two 2 x 6 pedals. In our example, the ladder has eight steps, so the total running time is 80 inches.
However, in mathematics there is a wrinkle: if you use a high deck, it is best to break a ladder with an average landing. “In practice, you can only use about 14 steps, because this is the most important step you take with a 16-foot 2 x 12 cut [with a run],” said Andy Engel, author of the Taunton building ladder. “But I prefer to add a landing point after every seven or seven adventurers.”
Step 2: Cut off the stringers
Before setting step 2 x 12, determine how the string will enter the deck. They are either directly attached to the rim rims, so the top steps are flush with the top of the deck or flush with the frame under the deck, which we do (see Figure on the previous page). When they are installed under the deck, the stringers either attach to the beams, or connect between the beams, and the ends of the stringer are cut out for a long time to reach the frame.
Mark the tread protector with a square frame using a stepped sensor. These small brass clamps are cut to the square and provide an accurate way to mark several identical cutouts. Secure the staircase indicator on the square tab directly to the enlarged size. Connect another sensor to the housing of the square with the size of the run. Then put the square on 2 x 12, press the manometer to the edge of the board and mark the tread and the riser. Slide the square down to align it with the previously drawn groove and add the next groove.
Use a circular saw to cut the notch, trying not to exceed the line. Use a jig saw or a hand saw to complete the cut.
Then, the lower part of the stringer is cut to a value equal to the thickness of the tread. For example, if you are installing a 2 x 6 pedal, cut 1 1/2 inches from the bottom of the stringer. Use the first stringer as a template to mark the remaining stringers.
We twist each stringer into a deck frame with a 16-inch gap. In the case when