Why You Need Spouwmuur Isolatie(Cavity Wall Insulation) ?

If your house is not properly protected, the light will escape from the wall. As the Vitality Sparing Trust showed, about 33% of the heat in the uninsulated house will flow out of the wall.

However, muurisolatie (wall insulation) can prevent this, and it should not be costly. It also saves the dynamic account.

Do I need muurisolatie (wall warming)?
You probably do not need to emphasize the opportunity to live in ultramodern property (wall warming). Work in the 1990s or later, because your muar can be protected. In any case, you need to protect a more mature property – this means that you need to check whether your house has a solid or hollow (hollow wall). Learn more about spouwmuurisolatie from this blog.

Spouwmuur (hollow wall)

Houses that worked after the 1920s can take place (hollow walls). An embedded wall is actually two walls with a hole in the middle – or a hole. If you are not sure, please study the masonry. If these blocks form a normal example, you may have turbidity (hollow wall). You can also define the width of the wall. Wall thickness of more than 260 mm can have a cavity (cavity).

The walls are then used to protect materials such as mineral wool, polystyrene powder or foam. When the work is done, the spaces are filled and therefore should not be identified. The whole process usually takes only a few hours.

You can simply isolate the insulation (cavity wall insulation), because they are currently not filled. If you do not know whether the wall is now isolated (isolated). You can contact the registered installer to evaluate the borescope. This is due to the penetration of a small gap in the outer wall to check whether the hall is isolated (isolated). Then you can contact the administration of your party building to check if they have any data.

Is my property reasonable?
Spouwmuur isolatie (wall insulation) is not suitable for every object. The width of the hall should be at least 50 mm, and the installer should be able to perform all external muuras. If your house is limited to another property, the installer will introduce a hollow (hollow) barrier so that your neighbors are not harmed.

Most organizations require that the brickwork is in good condition, and not lead to precipitation. You should also treat any wet problems that were previously suitable for isolating spouwmuur.

How much does it cost for spouwmuur isolatie?
Spouwmuur isolatie (insulation of hollow walls) carries costs, but you can expect to pay around £ 700 to protect your order. The average size of the property is about 400 pounds sterling. Despite this, the defense can recover costs in about five years. Because you can save 275 pounds of gas and electricity per year.

Make sure that you select the organization you want to use intentionally. In an ideal world, they must be individuals of the National Alliance of Isolation (NIA), the Office for the Protection of Depression (CIGA) or the Agrément UK Leadership Group (BBA). You also need to make sure that SIGA provides long-term work.

What Is Spray Foam Insulation? Is It Safe?

If your house was built after the 1920s, it could be a hollow wall. If it was not built in the last 20 years, then these cavities may be empty. If this is the case, then filling the wall insulation can be a very economical way to maintain heat in the house and save energy costs.

Approximately one third of the heat loss in most homes passes through walls, so cavity insulation can save up to 160 pounds of heat per year. In fact, according to the website of the Trust of Energy Conservation, he can pay for himself in less than five years.

Air passes through each hole, and cracks and cracks move inside and outside the house. About 33% of the air penetrates into walls, ceilings and floors. To get better building properties, you need to add an improved insulation system. Lapolla is an advanced insulation system.

Foam foam insulation maximizes homeowner investment by sealing the exterior of the building, preventing air from escaping from the conditioning chamber and preventing uncontrolled air from entering the building. Air exchange inside and outside the premises is the main reason for increasing electricity bills. The heating and cooling of the building mechanical system continues to work, and the reduction of extreme temperature changes can save excessive use of the mechanical system and lead to lower energy costs.

The value K of a sprayed or injected foam (commonly referred to as a spray foam) is in the range of 0.025 to 0.028 W / mK, which provides a very high insulation value.

Spray foam is produced locally using specialized equipment and is manufactured by highly qualified and approved installers to ensure quality control and performance.

The insulation material used to spray the foam can be closed or opened. Low thermal conductivity with closed holes for stable, low leakage of air and water stop. Open cellular foams are more air-permeable, have better acoustic characteristics and are less expensive to isolate than closed cells.

Basic insulation
According to the Environmental Protection Fund, 25% of the heat loss in the house falls on the roof, 35% – on the walls and 25% – on air leakage or ventilation. Therefore, the hollow wall and attic / roof are one of the most effective measures to improve the energy efficiency of the house.

Foamed foam can be used in various insulation areas, including: attic / roof, attic, walls, floors, ceilings and filled voids and gaps.

Foam helps reduce heat loss and risk, reduce energy costs and make your home more comfortable. In a warm house, you can cut the heating by half – not only saves energy and money, but also helps prolong the life of the boiler.

Commercial insulation
Internal properties not only benefit from proper insulation, but many commercial buildings can also use foam insulation, including: factories, warehouses, trade / exhibition spaces, offices, soffits and agricultural buildings. For many of these foams, it also helps to prevent surface condensation and cracks, which gives an advantage to the use of these buildings.

Foamed foams are very versatile and have different insulating materials and technologies designed to meet different types of performance and requirements in various industrial projects.

Next step
To find out more about foam insulation, surveys and quotes, click on the links below to find NIA installers in your area.

You know that the NIA installers have signed our strict professional practice, which means that members approved by the NIA can confidently use these standards.

These figures are estimates for England, Scotland and Wales and are based on isolated gas houses. The actual payback period will depend on the date of installation of insulation, since the monthly savings will vary depending on the winter and summer. The average installation cost shown here does not change.

The wall of the chamber consists of two separate thin walls (usually of bricks called “skins” or “leaves”) with gaps (or cavities) between them. They are mounted on the wall together with the metal.

As mentioned above, your family’s age is the number one priority. However, if you do not know how big it is, or if you think it was built around 1930, it could be an empty or solid wall to see any open brickwork. If your house has a hollow wall, all the bricks look the same, for example:

If all the brick walls in your house are covered or covered, then you will not see any real bricks, you can see the thickness of the facade.

How to Build Your Safe Room?

A safe room protects your family and friends from the harsh weather and strong attacks of people using hand tools or small arms.

If you are on a business trip, think about how to organize a safe room for you, if you can not protect your loved ones. Several companies have built safe rooms from modesty and simplicity to large and luxurious. When the stock market fell in the fall of 2008, I decided it was time to build a safe room for my family to prevent civil unrest. The safest (and cheapest) safe premises use existing basement walls, which are usually reinforced concrete structures. If you do not live in a log or stone house, you need a cellar fortress so that your family and friends are safe.

The base angle is particularly good for building a secure room, because two walls are already installed. If your basement has a three-layer zone, all you need to do is build a fourth and add a door. I used a camouflage tape to create a space to create a safe room for my family. It can accommodate from three to four people. In general, you’d better have a room too big, not too small. You can store values ​​such as food, weapons and ammunition.

Safe, safe room, security room on defensive defense, security room, security room for bricks

I chose a hollow block 6 x 8 x 16 inches thick, and I paid about $ 0.75. Since 2008, prices have almost doubled. Another good option is to use a 4 x 8 x 16 inch solid block. Most modern concrete blocks have a notch for inserting reinforcement (reinforcement). I did not use steel rods to prevent the wall from landing for some reason. A few decades ago I did enough repairs on the brick wall and knew that I was terribly bad on the masonry. I found a way to replace the mixed solution and apply it with a spatula: Quikcrete is a concrete glue for high-performance applications. I bought a few gallons and smeared it with an old brush.

Using the chalk line on the concrete floor as a reference point for the first road (one layer of the block), I started working. Apply a large amount of white glue on the floor and several parts. I wait until the glue sticks and puts every detail in the correct position. A liquid binder provides sufficient working time before curing. After drying, it becomes transparent and makes the final product more professional. For through connections, I used more glue, because the end connections did not have the weight of the block itself to compress them. I bought half a brick to shake the joints of each course. The first course is straightforward, so the subsequent course will be straightforward if I am careful. I took several courses, took off my soaked gloves, covered a gallon pot, and then left for one day.

I returned in the morning to determine if the glue was as strong as the promotion. I can not move any block by hitting them. Encourage, I continue to work. The low wall goes faster. Unloading the blocks from the truck, moving them down and lifting each block, turned out to be a very good training. The most difficult part of the wall: a small space between the stove and the existing plaster. In a few places I had to use a 4-inch wide block, because a 6-inch block does not fit.

Safe, safe, security room, defense room, cellar
The author laid a concrete block with sand in his basement to provide additional protection.
Although the hollow block is strong enough for many applications, I think it should be slightly stronger so that it can be used as a safe room. To strengthen the hollow block, the voids of each block can be filled with sand, pea gravel or concrete. I chose sand because it easily flows through the chess holes, because mixed concrete is laborious and relatively constant. Almost a ton of sand entered the wall, and after its completion the wall weighed several tons. Concrete foundation floor can safely withstand this load. However, such a wall, built on a traditional wooden foundation, will certainly damage the floors.

At the end, the wall of the safe room looks like it was built as a part of the house. People often miss the concrete wall of the block, which has no features. Nobody asked about the new wall, including those who often visited the house.

Since the oven is installed in a safe room, the supplied air of the furnace is supplied from the outside – this does not require additional heat. The unexpected advantage of concrete blocks is that the neighboring offices are quieter, because the walls of the mouth

Best Way to Make Amazing Stairs

From a technical point of view, there are no particular difficulties for the construction of stairs for decks, entrances or shacks. Anyone who has basic carpentry skills can make the necessary cutting and assembly details. Nevertheless, the construction of a ladder is perhaps the most difficult task you have ever done.

The staircase must correspond to the strict codes of buildings to ensure safety and comfort. We are used to uniform, professionally constructed ladders, and small differences between the stages can lead to dangers of shutdown. High steps make it difficult and shallow, uncomfortable and dangerous. Due to the small number of errors, the construction ladder requires careful assembling and some potentially complex calculations. First of all, contact your office building to get local recommendations. Then follow the instructions on these pages – spend a lot of time on proper planning. As an example, we use the steps leading to a deck in the backyard.

Basic staircase anatomy
A typical ladder consists of three main components: a stringer, a pedal and a riser. Stringers are usually cut from 2 x 12s and are sloped panels that support other components and carry a mass of people walking down the stairs. They are usually located 16 inches from the center. When determining the width of the ladder, do not forget to be wider and better. “The wide staircase is more convenient and safe,” said Paul Mantoni, an outsource contractor for Terriers Plus in Trivelle, Connecticut. “I rarely build a ladder less than 4 feet wide, and I like them more.”

The protector forms the top surface of each step, and the riser is installed directly under the leading edge of each tread. According to many builders, some stairs do not have risers, but this is a mistake. Scott Padgett, an award winning deck manufacturer in Idylliville, California, explained: “The lift can protect exposed strings of cut stringers from the weather.” If there is no riser, the stringer will pop faster. Open or split.

Step 1. Calculate the rise and run
The first step in building a ladder for the deck is to determine the total height of the ladder or the overall vertical height that the ladder should cover. Place the straight plate at the top of the deck, pull it out from the edge and measure it to the landing site. Say, the overall growth is 57 inches. The next task is to find the lift of each step. The division of 57 by 7 inches (typical growth per step) yields 8.14. Complete the steps: eight. Then determine the actual growth by dividing 57 inches by 8 steps and getting 7 1/8 inches per step.

You can use this information to find the total mileage on the ladder – or how many horizontal distances will be covered when lifting. Multiply the number of steps by the run or the horizontal depth of each step. The optimal operation for each step is at least 10 inches, which is enough to accommodate two 2 x 6 pedals. In our example, the ladder has eight steps, so the total running time is 80 inches.

However, in mathematics there is a wrinkle: if you use a high deck, it is best to break a ladder with an average landing. “In practice, you can only use about 14 steps, because this is the most important step you take with a 16-foot 2 x 12 cut [with a run],” said Andy Engel, author of the Taunton building ladder. “But I prefer to add a landing point after every seven or seven adventurers.”

Step 2: Cut off the stringers
Before setting step 2 x 12, determine how the string will enter the deck. They are either directly attached to the rim rims, so the top steps are flush with the top of the deck or flush with the frame under the deck, which we do (see Figure on the previous page). When they are installed under the deck, the stringers either attach to the beams, or connect between the beams, and the ends of the stringer are cut out for a long time to reach the frame.

Mark the tread protector with a square frame using a stepped sensor. These small brass clamps are cut to the square and provide an accurate way to mark several identical cutouts. Secure the staircase indicator on the square tab directly to the enlarged size. Connect another sensor to the housing of the square with the size of the run. Then put the square on 2 x 12, press the manometer to the edge of the board and mark the tread and the riser. Slide the square down to align it with the previously drawn groove and add the next groove.

Use a circular saw to cut the notch, trying not to exceed the line. Use a jig saw or a hand saw to complete the cut.

Then, the lower part of the stringer is cut to a value equal to the thickness of the tread. For example, if you are installing a 2 x 6 pedal, cut 1 1/2 inches from the bottom of the stringer. Use the first stringer as a template to mark the remaining stringers.

We twist each stringer into a deck frame with a 16-inch gap. In the case when